| Name |
Artistic
Appearance |
Cross-Section |
Stitch Holes |
General
Appearance |
Drawing
Convention |
Notes & Application |
Running
Stitch (Glover's
Stitch) |
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A single thread moving in and out. It is less flimsy in leather than it is in cloth,
but it is not as secure a stitch as one might want. White refers to this as a
"Glover's Stitch". |
Shoemaker's
Stitch
(SaddleStitch) |
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Used for attaching multiple layers of leather. It consists of two threads passing each
other through the same holes in the leather. |
Double
Running
Stitch
(Shoemaker's
Stitch, Saddle
Stitch) |
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Used for attaching multiple layers of leather. It consists of two threads passing each
other through the same holes in the leather. |
Interlocking
Double Running
Stitch (Locking
Stitch) |
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|
|
To all appearances, it looks like the double running stitch, however it is even more
secure. It is accomplished by making a loop around each needle before pushing the needles
through the leather. The loop made around the right hand needle is clockwise, while a
counter clockwise loop is made around the left hand needle so that when the needles pass
one another they form a double overhand knot inside the stitch hole. A simple variation of
this is to wrap the thread around the second needle with each stitch, so that when the
threads are pulled tight there is a knot in each stitch to help keep the stitches from
unraveling if a thread gets cut. |
Whip Stitch
-Stab |
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Similar to the overcasting stitch in basic sewing, this is, like the running stitch, a
fast simple stitch. White indicates that the whip stitch is the basic stitch for making
moccasins (although it was sometimes used on some Dark Ages and earlier shoes). |
Whip Stitch
- Edge |
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|
Whip Stitch
- Inner
(Binding
Stitch/Over-
stitch) |
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|
Used to attach heel stiffeners, lace-hole reinforcements, tongues and top-bands. The
stitches do not penetrate the full thickness of the leather, and so are invisible on the
outside of the shoe. This can also be used to assemble upperrs so that a seam is not
exposed to the foot on the inside |
Whip Stitch
- (Shallow
Binding Stitch/
Couching/
Reinforcement Stitch) |
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| Lapped Seam with Whip Stitch |
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| Lapped Seam with Whip Stitch |
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|
Stabbed Stitching
Flesh/Grain Stitching |
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Stabbed Stitching
Flesh/Grain Stitching |
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Flesh/Edge
Seam - Butted
Whipstitch |
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| Flesh/Edge Butted Seam |
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Used for attaching inserts and main seams |