Stitches and Seams

(Page 2)


From these basic stitches, the following seams can be built:

Name Artistic
Appearance
Cross-Section Stitch Holes General
Appearance
Drawing
Convention
Notes & Application
Running
Stitch (Glover's
Stitch)
stitchr1.jpg (2025 bytes) stitchr2.jpg (1685 bytes)       A single thread moving in and out. It is less flimsy in leather than it is in cloth, but it is not as secure a stitch as one might want. White refers to this as a "Glover's Stitch".
Shoemaker's
Stitch

(SaddleStitch)
stitchs1.jpg (2080 bytes) stitchs2.jpg (2286 bytes)       Used for attaching multiple layers of leather. It consists of two threads passing each other through the same holes in the leather.
Double 
Running 
Stitch 
(Shoemaker's
Stitch, Saddle 
Stitch)
stitchy1.jpg (2366 bytes) stitchy2.jpg (1956 bytes)       Used for attaching multiple layers of leather. It consists of two threads passing each other through the same holes in the leather.
Interlocking 
Double Running 
Stitch (Locking 
Stitch)
          To all appearances, it looks like the double running stitch, however it is even more secure. It is accomplished by making a loop around each needle before pushing the needles through the leather. The loop made around the right hand needle is clockwise, while a counter clockwise loop is made around the left hand needle so that when the needles pass one another they form a double overhand knot inside the stitch hole. A simple variation of this is to wrap the thread around the second needle with each stitch, so that when the threads are pulled tight there is a knot in each stitch to help keep the stitches from unraveling if a thread gets cut.
Whip Stitch
-Stab
Similar to the overcasting stitch in basic sewing, this is, like the running stitch, a fast simple stitch. White indicates that the whip stitch is the basic stitch for making moccasins (although it was sometimes used on some Dark Ages and earlier shoes).
Whip Stitch
- Edge
   
Whip Stitch
- Inner 
(Binding 
Stitch/Over-
stitch)

Used to attach heel stiffeners, lace-hole reinforcements, tongues and top-bands. The stitches do not penetrate the full thickness of the leather, and so are invisible on the outside of the shoe. This can also be used to assemble upperrs so that a seam is not exposed to the foot on the inside
Whip Stitch
- (Shallow 
Binding Stitch/
Couching/
Reinforcement Stitch)
 
Lapped Seam with Whip Stitch stitchz1.jpg (2142 bytes) stitchz2.jpg (1913 bytes) stitchz3.jpg (2932 bytes) stitchz3.jpg (2932 bytes) stitchz4.jpg (3107 bytes)  
Lapped Seam with Whip Stitch STTCHDD1.jpg (1249 bytes) STTCHDD2.jpg (1203 bytes) STTCHDD3.jpg (1915 bytes) STTCHDD4.jpg (2119 bytes) STTCHDD5.jpg (1665 bytes)  
Stabbed Stitching
Flesh/Grain Stitching
 
Stabbed Stitching
Flesh/Grain Stitching
stitchu1.jpg (2372 bytes) stitchu2.jpg (1379 bytes)        
Flesh/Edge
Seam -  Butted
Whipstitch
   
Flesh/Edge Butted Seam
Used for attaching inserts and main seams

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Footwear of the Middle Ages - Some Stitches and Seams Used in Sewing Shoes, Page 2, Copyright 1999 I. Marc Carlson. 
This page is given for the free exchange of information, provided the Author's Name is included in all future revisions, and no money change hands, other than as expressed in the Copyright Page.