Glossary of Footwear Terminology, E
The outside edge of the welt and outsole. [Devlin, 1840]
Edge-flesh seam (or Flesh-edge seam)
- A narrow strip of leather or other material which is stitched to the
top edge, or topline, of the Upper, or part of it, for binding and
sometimes for decorative purposes. A top band may be sewn on as a casing
so that a drawstring can be inserted, which can then be tied. It is very
common in Germanic shoes. After 1700, the purpose for a Top Band is
to hold a lining in.
- A strip of leather whip-stitched to the edge of a shoe's opening in
order to finish it off neatly and reinforce the shoe leather. [Goubitz,
- In modern shoemaking terms, this is one form of "sewing with a Split
Hold" (q.v.). The neologic term refers to stitching where the awl
penetrates the flesh side of the leather, and emerges from the near edge
of the piece of leather. This seam is commonly used in the majority of
medieval turnshoes (q.v.).
- The line of junction formed when the stitch holes are pierced from the
edge of one section (usually the sole) to the flesh side of the other
section; commonly used in the majority of medieval turnshoes (q.v.).
Although this term has not shown up in the literature, it seems rational
that if "sewing with a Split Hold" (q.v.) can be broken down into "edge/flesh
seams", the opposite term needs to exist for stitching where the awl penetrates
the grainside of the leather, and emerges through the edge of the piece of
leather. There is considerable difference of opinion on this point, and I am
told, quite vocally that they are the same thing.
Edge Trimming (also Rounding)
A hand or machine tool that is used to burnish and ornament the edge of
an outsole. [Frommer]
Trimming the sole to the last, forming the seat or heel portion of the
sole, cutting off any wavy edges, making a channel and possibly holing the
stitch lengths. "Rounding the soles on" [Holme, 1688]
A tool borrowed from harnessmaking, used to slightly bevel the edge of the
Some medieval shoes have a long and pointed ending on the backpart [Goubitz,
A vamp with an integrated or sewn-on extension that reaches to the
instep joint. [Goubitz, 2001]
See Awl. Term used in northern counties and/Scotland [Salaman]
See Awl. Specifically a shoemaker's awl [Promptorium Parvalorum]
End (Other medieval terms include: Tatched End, Tatching End, Tachynge
Modern and traditional terms include: Roset, Shoemaker's End,
Waxed End, Wax-end)
There is some minor disagreement in usage here between modern shoe and
bootmakers on this, some using the term to refer to the bristled end of a cered
lingel, while others use the term to refer to the whole lingel. My
personal preference is to use it to refer to bristled end.
A form of decoration using a blunt edged tool.
Apparently a type of boots made from expensive fabric.
Eyelets (Lacing holes, Tie Holes)
(See Facing and Lining)
- The holes in quarters, latchets or tongues through which a string, ribbon or thong is
passed to hold the shoe on the foot. [Thornton/Swann, 1983] [Webber, 1989]
- While strictly speaking the holes for lacing, a convention has developed for using this
term only for those with metal or plastic etc. binding. Where this is only visible on the
inside, the term blind eyelet is used. Other holes should be termed lace holes, or
stitched lace holes. All are usually reckoned in pairs, though uneven numbers may occur.
Holes one-eighth to one-twelfth of an inch (2-3 mm) across at intervals of two fifths to
three-fifths of an inch (1-1.5 em) through which the shoe laces are threaded. Classic
gentlemen's shoes normally have five pairs of eyelets. [Vass]
A small metal disc with hole in the centre used to reinforce lace holes since late
18th century. [Goubitz, 2001]
A short extension to the front of the quarters wilere one or more lace holes are
placed. [Goubitz, 2001]
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Footwear of the Middle Ages - Glossary of Footwear Terminology E, Copyright ©
1999, 2000, 2001, 2005 I. Marc Carlson.
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