Glossary of Footwear Terminology, E

International Language Terminology Cross-Reference General Glossary of Footwear Types

The outside edge of the welt and outsole. [Devlin, 1840]

Edge Binding (Top band)

  1. A narrow strip of leather or other material which is stitched to the top edge, or topline, of the Upper, or part of it, for binding and sometimes for decorative purposes. A top band may be sewn on as a casing so that a drawstring can be inserted, which can then be tied. It is very common in Germanic shoes. After 1700, the purpose for a Top Band is to hold a lining in.
  2. A strip of leather whip-stitched to the edge of a shoe's opening in order to finish it off neatly and reinforce the shoe leather. [Goubitz, 2001]
Edge-flesh seam (or Flesh-edge seam)
  1. In modern shoemaking terms, this is one form of "sewing with a Split Hold" (q.v.).  The neologic term refers to stitching where the awl penetrates the flesh side of the leather, and emerges from the near edge of the piece of leather.IMAGE2/STITCHP1.JPG (2930 bytes)   This seam is commonly used in the majority of medieval turnshoes (q.v.).
  2. The line of junction formed when the stitch holes are pierced from the edge of one section (usually the sole) to the flesh side of the other section; commonly used in the majority of medieval turnshoes (q.v.).
Edge-grain seam*
Although this term has not shown up in the literature, it seems rational that if "sewing with a Split Hold" (q.v.) can be broken down into "edge/flesh seams", the opposite term needs to exist for stitching where the awl penetrates the grainside of the leather, and emerges through the edge of the piece of leather. There is considerable difference of opinion on this point, and I am told, quite vocally that they are  the same thing.

Edge Iron
A hand or machine tool that is used to burnish and ornament the edge of an outsole. [Frommer]

Edge Trimming (also Rounding)
Trimming the sole to the last, forming the seat or heel portion of the sole, cutting off any wavy edges, making a channel and possibly holing the stitch lengths. "Rounding the soles on" [Holme, 1688]

A tool borrowed from harnessmaking, used to slightly bevel the edge of the leather. [Frommer/Saguto]

Elongated backpart
Some medieval shoes have a long and pointed ending on the backpart [Goubitz, 2001]

Elongated/extended vamp
A vamp with an integrated or sewn-on extension that reaches to the instep joint. [Goubitz, 2001]

See Awl.  Term used in northern counties and/Scotland [Salaman]

See Awl

See Awl. Specifically a shoemaker's awl [Promptorium Parvalorum]

End (Other medieval terms include: Tatched End, Tatching End, Tachynge End.  Modern and traditional terms include:  Roset, Shoemaker's End, Waxed End, Wax-end)
There is some minor disagreement in usage here between modern shoe and bootmakers on this, some using the term to refer to the bristled end of a cered lingel, while others use the term to refer to the whole lingel.  My personal preference is to use it to refer to bristled end.

A form of decoration using a blunt edged tool.

Estivaux (Aestivales)
Apparently a type of boots made from expensive fabric. 

Eye stay
(See Facing and Lining)

Eyelets (Lacing holes, Tie Holes)
  1. The holes in quarters, latchets or tongues through which a string, ribbon or thong is passed to hold the shoe on the foot. [Thornton/Swann, 1983] [Webber, 1989]
  2. While strictly speaking the holes for lacing, a convention has developed for using this term only for those with metal or plastic etc. binding. Where this is only visible on the inside, the term blind eyelet is used. Other holes should be termed lace holes, or stitched lace holes. All are usually reckoned in pairs, though uneven numbers may occur. [Thornton/Swann, 1983]
  3. Eyelets
    Holes one-eighth to one-twelfth of an inch (2-3 mm) across at intervals of two fifths to three-fifths of an inch (1-1.5 em) through which the shoe laces are threaded. Classic gentlemen's shoes normally have five pairs of eyelets. [Vass]
  4. Eyelet
    A small metal disc with hole in the centre used to reinforce lace holes since late 18th century. [Goubitz, 2001]
Eyelet Stay
(See Facing)

Eyelet tab
A short extension to the front of the quarters wilere one or more lace holes are placed. [Goubitz, 2001]

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Footwear of the Middle Ages - Glossary of Footwear Terminology E, Copyright 1999, 2000, 2001, 2005 I. Marc Carlson. 
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