A Turnover Pump or Shoe.
The fore part of a turnover, whether it be a pump or a shoe, is to be made the same as directed under those respective heads.—The inner sole of the heel part must be pared full to the edge of the last, and a feather left to it full as wide as the substance of the quarter, lining, and rand.
When sewing the. rand, let there be a thin slip of leather or cloth sewed in between the rand and the stitch, as it prevents the rand when turned over from grinning. After you have sewed the rand, pare the spare leather off that is above the stitch, and lay the seam smooth; but if it be any kind of wove stuff, you must not pare it off, but lay it down smooth with the hammer or pincers.
Now, if it be a spring heel, you must put on the split lift and lift before the sole, and proceed with it as directed in the man’s shoe.—Some do sew the lifts as in the man’s shoe, and some secure them with pegs; the latter will answer, if secured well.—Let the heel be of a gradual slope from the hind part to the corners, and there diminish next to nothing.
Before the rand is turned over, put some paste between the rand and the heel, and last the rand on the lift, and brace it down firm.
Then set the seat of the rand, and bring the sole over, and proceed in the same manner as directed in the top piece of the woman's pump.—But if the heel is to have a top piece instead of a spring sole, the sole is to go on the sewing stitch, and the heel to be made square in front, as well as at the sides, before the rand is brought over.
Women’s plain Heel.
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