Woman's Shoe, Leather, Silk, &c.
The bottom stuff is to be fitted the same as disected in the man’s shoe, except the hind part of the sole, which in must be partly thinned as directed in the woman’s pump.
After you have fastened the inner sole to the last and rounded it, let the feather of the fore part of the inner sole be something wider than the substance of the upper, lining, side lining, and rand; but not wider than what will keep the upper down smooth on the edge of the rand, when the last is out.
Unless the shoe is what is commonly called a blind welt, then the feather must be similar to that of a man's shoe.
The heel part you must proceed with, the same as directed in the pump.
After you have holed the inner sole, and lasted the shoe, prepare the rand, which should be about half an inch wide, of middling substance and mellow leather ; but if you should find it rather stiff and hard, put it between your knee and the edge of the knife, with the back of the knife inclining towards you, and skive off the grain of the rand.
By drawing the rand twice or thrice under the knife in that position, it will become pliant enough.—You must sew the fore rand as directed in that of the boot rand, and proceed in a similar manner till you have braced it.
When you have braced the rand, level the inner sole to the rand with some skivings with some paste.—-The heel part you are to proceed with as directed in the pump, according to the kind of work it is of.
Now. put on the sole, and round it so close to the fore rand as to leave only enough to cover the stitch; and cut the channel as in the man’s shoe.—The stitching thread must be according to the quality of the work, black or white, full or small; but let it be what it may, the form must be the same.—Unless the work be very heavy, the threads are white made of flax, spinnel, &c. The awl must be round: the number of stitches is according to the nature of the work and the fullness of the thread.—The hold is to be near the middle of the rand; but you should prick the rand at the place where the stitch is to be, before you take the hold.
After you have stitched, close the channel, scour the sole out, and slick it well: then with the train end of the hammer turn the flesh edge of the sole over the stitch.—Now pare the sole square at the edge, and nearly close to the stitch; and if the upper be black, colour the edge so too; but if of any other colour, let the edge of the sole remain the colour of the leather.
With a little soft paste damp the edge of the sole, and with a suitable shoulder stick slick the edge well all round; then with the point of the knife take the loose leather from off the stitch, as directed in the top piece of the pump.—Clean the stitches and prick them; then clamp the edge of the sole with a little gum water, and with the shoulder stick slick the edge well, all round, and set the rand.
The heel part must be finished the same as that of the pump, and the buffing or
the sole, as well as the inside part when the last is out.
Woman’s Cork Shoe.
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