The stuff is to be fitted as in that of the shoe. The inner sole is to be laid to the last, and the seat of the heel rounded and holed as that of the shoe or pump.—The inner sole at the fore part is to be pared plumb to the edge of the last; and if it be stout enough, let it be taken off the last, and with the point of the knife slit the edge, near the grain side, round the fore part, in depth, full equal to the width of the sewing stitch, that, when the channel is sewed, it may cover the stitch : therefore it must be turned back when sewing.—But if the inner sole be too thin, you must cover the stitch with a thin strip or a sock: the latter is preferable to the other two.—Now lay the inner sole again on the last and last the upper leather, like that of the shoe; but the upper leather must be allowed wider than that of the shoe, that the tacks may be more within the inner sole.
After the channel is lasted, and the upper leather laid smooth on the inner sole, as well as the upper leather side, so that the edge of the last may be discernible, then brace the upper leather to the inner sole, close and firm, all round the fore part.
Then fill up the vacant space of the inner sole, that is between the upper leather, with some skivings to make it level, and proceed with the heel part as directed in the shoe. Before you put on the sole; put some paste between, and then let the sole Be well settled, and round it nearly to the edge of the last; then go on with the heel to that of paring, before you proceed with the fore part.
When you have done so much to the heel, cut a channel in the sole round the fore part, about the same distance from the edge of the last as that of the sewing stitch of a pump; and the channel must be of such width as to have a skiving off of the grain of the sole, equal to the width of the stitch: in this case, the thread will be rather full.
Then, with a straight flat awl, hole the sole through and inner sole to the last, in the channel round the fore part.—Now take the last out, and make a full thread; let it be well waxed, but not so hard twisted as in that of the shoe. You must have two threads, one from the heel to the toe, and the other from the toe to the heel.— After you have sewed the channel pump round, put the last in again and fittings, and lay the sole even, and scour out the sole, and slick it well.— Then pare the sole to the edge of the last, like that of the pump, and pare it sloping from the stitch to the edge of the sole, so that the edge may be what thickness you please, and slick the stitch, the sloping, and the square edges well; prick the stitches; and buff the bottom.—-Now finish the heel as directed in that of the shoe.
A double channel pump is only to add a second row of stitching within the first.
Channels are, I believe, entirely out of wear, or nearly so. They are very
stiff heavy wear, and it is very likely that they never will be in general use
A Man’s Boot.
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