Sewing Stitches Used in Medieval Clothing

STITCH TYPE

DATED TO

LOCATION

ITEM

SOURCE

Braiding stitch

Danish bronze age

Thorsberg Mose, Denmark

Cloth fragment with oversewing in stitch resembling braiding stitch

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 72

Button

Danish bronze age

Boremose, Denmark

Leather cape I; leather buttons made by winding a strip of leather round a wooden peg, like a toggle fastening

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 18

Buttonhole stitch

Danish bronze age

Denmark (general)

Reference to skins and textiles

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 279

Buttonhole stitch

Danish bronze age

Bredmose, Denmark

Coarse cloth. 2 seamed edges oversewn with buttonhole stitch

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 28

Buttonhole stitch

Danish bronze age

Aalestrup Bog, Denmark

Pieces of woven fabric sewn in buttonhole stitch

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 44

Buttonhole stitch

Danish bronze age

Haraldskæ Mose, Denmark

Fabric II. Fringed edge oversewn in buttonhole stitch

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 58

Buttonhole stitch

Danish bronze age

Hvilehøj, Denmark

Remains of fine cloth. Fragment with buttonhole stitch.

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 118

Couched cord

Danish bronze age

Denmark (general)

Reference to skins and textiles

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 279

Feather stitch

Danish bronze age

Huldremose, Denmark

Checkered skirt

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 51

Hem stitch

Danish bronze age

Krogens Mølle Mose, Denmark

Hooded cape

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 15

Hem stitch

Danish bronze age

Roummose, Denmark

Sheep skin cape.

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 42

Hem Stitch

Danish bronze age

Karlby Mose, Denmark

Skin cape C. Hem stitch in gut or sinew

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 47

Hem stitch

Danish bronze age

Karlby Mose, Denmark

Skin cape B. Cape sewn in hem stitch with skin thread

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 47

Hem stitch

Danish bronze age

Baunsø Mose, Denmark

Skin cape A. Sewn in hem stitch with gut or leather

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 39

Hem stitch

Danish bronze age

Baunsø Mose, Denmark

Skin cape B. Hem stitch used for piecing

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 39

Hem stitch

Danish bronze age

Refstrup Hovedgaard, Denmark

Skin cape with hem stitched seams

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 56

Hem stitch

Danish bronze age

Haraldskæ Mose, Denmark

Fabric I. Borders single-turned and hem stitched

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 58

Hem stitch

Danish bronze age

Vester Torsted Mose, Denmark

Fragment of skin garment. Sewn with hem stitch

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 66

Hem stitch

Danish bronze age

Vrangstrup, Denmark

Two cloth fragments III. Edge turned over and sewn in hem stitch with 2-ply sewing thread

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 96

Hemstitch

Danish bronze age

Huldremose, Denmark

Skin cape. Sewn with hemstitch

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 52

Herringbone stitch

Danish bronze age

Huldremose, Denmark

Skirt

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 280

Overcast stitch

Danish bronze age

Denmark (general)

Reference to skins and textiles

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 279

Overcast stitch

Danish bronze age

Karlby Mose, Denmark

Skin cape C. Overcast stitch in gut or sinew

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 47

Overcast stitch

Danish bronze age

Huldremose, Denmark

Skin cape. Sewn with overcast stitch

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 52

Overcast stitch

Danish bronze age

Auning Mose, Denmark

Piece of cloth with overcast edges

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 54

Overcast stitch

Danish bronze age

Refstrup Hovedgaard, Denmark

Skin cape with overcast seams

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 56

Overcast stitch

Danish bronze age

Møgelmose, Denmark

Skin jacket with overcast stitches in leather thread

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 56

Overcast stitch

Danish bronze age

Haraldskæ Mose, Denmark

Skin cape. Skins joined with overcast stitches

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 58

Overcast stitch

Danish bronze age

Rønbjerg Mose, Denmark

Tunic sewn with overcast stitch

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 66

Overcast stitch

Danish bronze age

Vester Torsted Mose, Denmark

Fragment of skin garment. Sewn with overcast stitch; overcast stitch around cut out portion

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 66

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Krogens Mølle Mose, Denmark

Hooded cape

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 15

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Aardestrup, Denmark

Skin cape. Running stitched seams

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 33

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Roummose, Denmark

Sheep skin cape. Running stitched seams

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 42

Running Stitch

Danish bronze age

Karlby Mose, Denmark

Skin cape C. Running stitch in gut or sinew

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 47

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Karlby Mose, Denmark

Skin cape B. Cape sewn in running stitch with skin thread

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 47

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Arden Mose, Denamrk

Fragment with running stitches

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 280

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Boremose, Denmark

Cape I. Running stitched neck hem

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 18

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Boremose, Denmark

Cape II. Running stitch seams

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 18

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Baunsø Mose, Denmark

Skin cape A. Sewn in running stitch with gut or leather

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 39

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Baunsø Mose, Denmark

Skin cape B. Hem stitch used for piecing

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 39

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Karlby Mose, Denmark

Skin remnants D and E. Pieces of skin sewn together with running stitch

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 47

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Huldremose, Denmark

Skin cape. Sewn with running stitch

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 52

Running stitch

Danish bronze age

Haraldskæ Mose, Denmark

Skin cape. Skins joined with running stitches

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 58

Twisted buttonhole stitch

Danish bronze age

Osterbolle, Denmark

Fragment

Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 280

Back stitch (probably)

Pre-Viking or Viking era

St. Andrew’s Parish, Orkney Island, Scotland

Hood. Decorative band sewn to body of hood with "regular" stitches

Henshall, A. Early Textiles, p. 13

Chain stitch

Pre-Viking or Viking era

St. Andrew’s parish, Orkney Island, Scotland

Hood. Mend under chin – chain stitches in double thread, 5 per inch, at point of weakness, framing an area of darning

Henshall, A. Early Textiles, p. 13

Darning stitch(twill)

Pre-Viking or Viking era

St. Andrew’s Parish, Orkney Island, Scotland

Hood. Mending; stitching copies the twill weave in a heavier and darker yarn

Henshall, A. Early Textiles, p. 13

Hem stitch

Pre-Viking or Viking era

St. Andrew’s Parish, Orkney Island, Scotland

Hood. Raw edges of seam turned over twice and hemmed down on the outside; edges framing the face turned over twice onto the outside making a hem ½ inch wide; lower edge of the cloth turned outwards and hemmed to edge of decorative band; upper decorative band whipped to upper edge of lower band

Henshall, A. Early Textiles, p. 13

Overcast stitch

Pre-Viking or Viking era

St. Andrew’s Parish, Orkney Island, Scotland

Hood. Seam edges whipped together; woven decorative band ends whipped with deep stitches

Henshall, A. Early Textiles, p. 13

Patch or darn

Pre-Viking or Viking era

St. Andrew’s parish, Orkney Island, Scotland

Hood. Mend under chin area in a different fabric, possibly darned in (check text again)

Henshall, A. Early Textiles, p. 13

Bound seam

Viking Era?

York, England

Item 1460b. Ribbon bound-edge on fragment

Walton, P. Small Finds, p. 320

Catch stitch

Viking Era?

York, England

16-22 Coppergate No. 1408. Silk reliquary pouch

Walton, P. Textile Production NESA3, p. 68

Hem stitch

Viking Era?

York, England

Item 1460b. Ribbon bound-edge on fragment

Walton, P. Small Finds, p. 320

Over stitch

Viking Era?

York, England

16-22 Coppergate No. 1408. Silk reliquary pouch

Walton, P. Textile Production NESA3, p. 68

Overcast stitch

Viking Era?

York, England

Ribbon folded lengthwise & stitched

Walton, P. Small Finds, p. 369

Rolled hem

Viking Era?

York, England

Silk headdress, item #?

Walton, P. Small Finds, p. 320

Rolled hem (stitch type?)

Viking Era?

York, England

16-22 Coppergate No. 1332. Silk headdress

Walton, P. Textile Production NESA3, p. 70

Rolled hem (stitch type?)

Viking Era?

York, England

5-7 Coppergate No. 651. Silk headdress

Walton, P. Textile Production NESA3, p. 70

Running stitch

Viking Era?

York, England

Item 1460b. Ribbon bound-edge on fragment

Walton, P. Small Finds, p. 320

Running stitch

Viking Era?

York, England

Ribbon folded lengthwise & stitched

Walton, P. Small Finds, p. 369

Running stitch

Viking Era?

York, England

16-22 Coppergate No. 1408. Silk reliquary pouch

Walton, P. Textile Production NESA3, p. 68

Upright hem stitch

Viking Era?

York, England

Item 1460b. Ribbon bound-edge on fragment

Walton, P. Small Finds, p. 320

Upright hem stitch

Viking Era?

York, England

Item 1263.

Walton, P. Small Finds, p. 322

Whip stitch

Viking Era?

York, England

Stuffed pleats stitched together across the top

Walton, P. Small Finds, p. 355

2-ply self sewing yarn

Viking era, 9th-11th c

Dublin, Co. Cork, Ireland

Heckett, E. Some Silk & Wool Textiles NESA3, p. 87

Hem stitch

Viking era, 9th-11th c

Dublin, Co. Cork, Ireland

Heckett, E. Some Silk & Wool Textiles NESA3, p. 86

Rolled hem

Viking era, 9th-11th c

Dublin, Co. Cork, Ireland

Typical elements of silk and woolen caps

Heckett, E. Some Silk & Wool Textiles NESA3, p. 85

Running stitch

Viking era, 9th-11th c

Dublin, Co. Cork, Ireland

Typical elements of silk and woolen caps

Heckett, E. Some Silk & Wool Textiles NESA3, p. 85

Twice-turned hem

Viking era, 9th-11th c

Dublin, Co. Cork, Ireland

Typical elements of silk and woolen caps

Heckett, E. Some Silk & Wool Textiles NESA3, p. 85

Whip stitched cord

Viking era, 9th-11th c

Dublin, Co. Cork, Ireland

Typical elements of silk and woolen caps

Heckett, E. Some Silk & Wool Textiles NESA3, p. 85

Buttonhole stitch

Late 10^{th century}

^{Bjerringhøj, Denmark}

^{Ornamental band of silk and gold thread, edge sewn with buttonhole stitch in silk thread.}

^{Hald, M. Ancient Danish Textiles, p. 106}

^{Running stitch}

^{Late 10th c}

^{Hedeby (Haithabu)}

^{Seam treatment: seam stitched in running stitch; raw edges folded in toward each other and stitched together, as for a French seam}

^{Priest-Dorman, p. 9}

^{Overcast stitch}

^{Late 10th c}

^{Hedeby (Haithabu)}

^{Seam treatment: seam stitched in running stitch; raw edges folded in and overcast, as for a French seam}

^{Priest-Dorman, p. 9}

^{"Through" overcast stitch}

^{11th c}

^{Viborg Søndersø, Denmark}

^{Man’s shirt}

^{Fentz, p. ; Mulvaney, p. 7}

^{Back stitch}

^{11th c}

^{Viborg Søndersø, Denmark}

^{Man’s shirt.}

^{Fentz, p. ; Mulvaney, p. 6}

^{Hem stitch}

^{11th c}

^{Viborg Søndersø, Denmark}

^{Man’s shirt}

^{Fentz, p.}

^{Running stitch}

^{11th c}

^{Viborg Søndersø, Denmark}

^{Man’s shirt}

^{Fentz, p. ; Mulvaney, p. 7}

^{Whip (overcast) stitch}

^{11th c}

^{Viborg Søndersø, Denmark}

^{Man’s shirt}

^{Fentz, p. ; Mulvaney, p. 6}

^{Back stitch}

^{General for middle ages}

^{London, England}

^{Used for seams under pressure. No certain evidence of it exists in London examples, but may have been used on bias-cut items such as hose.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 156}

^{Running stitch}

^{General for middle ages}

^{London, England}

^{Stitching holes on items indicate that in the majority of cases a fine line of running stitches was used for holding two edges of cloth together. Size of stitches vary in relation to fineness and flexibility of cloth. 2-3mm stitch length is usual, though 4mm stitches have been recorded.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 155}

^{Running stitch}

^{General for middle ages}

^{London, England}

^{Allowances of backstitched seams held down to either side with running stitches, about 2-3mm out from seam}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 156}

^{Running stitch}

^{13th century, Early}

^{London, England}

^{No 430. Woolen garment, hemmed with running stitches in linen thread. Side edge folded back 8-9mm & stitched 5-6mm from edge. Lower edge then folded to depth of 25mm resulting in a large hem allowance & also stitched 5-6mm in from edge}

^{Crowfoot, et al, p. 157}

^{Hem stitch}

^{Early 13th c}

^{London, England}

^{No. 197. Small offcut. Folded under 5mm then 9mm and hemstitched. Twice turned hem}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 157}

^{Hem stitch}

^{13th century, Early}

^{London, England}

^{No. 44. Probably hem of mantle. Finished depth 5mm held by hemming stitches at about 4mm intervals.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 157}

^{Type unsure, possibly overcast or buttonhole}

^{13th century, Last decade}

^{Southampton, England}

^{Silk fabric with eyelets, thread has disappeared, probably linen}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 167}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{c. 1330-1340}

^{London, England}

^{No. 64. Buttoned sleeve with small cloth buttons and buttonholes, worked in silk}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 168}

^{Cloth buttons}

^{c. 1330-1340}

^{London, England}

^{No. 64. Buttoned sleeve with small cloth buttons and buttonholes}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 168}

^{Cloth buttons}

^{c. 1330-1340}

^{London, England}

^{No. 34. 16 buttons}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 169}

^{Cloth buttons}

^{c. 1330-1340}

^{London, England}

^{No. 67. 25 buttons}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 169}

^{Cloth buttons}

^{c. 1330-1340}

^{London, England}

^{No. 38. Small cloth buttons}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 169}

^{Overcast stitch on applique}

^c.1350

^Sweden

^{Bockstenman’s hood, red v-shaped piece on front}

^{Nockert, M. Bockstensmannen, pp. 43, 55}

^{Gathering stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 233. Skirt section of garment. Evidence of single-thread gathers.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 178}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{Silk Cloth No. 331. Selvedge double-folded and hemmed}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 88}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 235. Woolen fabric with single-turned hem in hemstitch}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 156}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 238. Woolen fabric with single-turned hem in hemstitch}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 156}

^{Long overcast}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 395. Single fold edge 3mm wide, silk facing now missing. Buttons sewn on with long overcast stitches, the stalk then wrapped tightly.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 169 (check the diagram to make sure)}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 219. Woolen fabric with single-turned hem in running stitch}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 156}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 243. Woolen fabric with single-turned hem in running stitch}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 156}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 244. Woolen fabric with single-turned hem in running stitch}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 156}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 171. Fragment of worsted cloth with series of parallel rows of running stitches.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 173}

^{Type unsure, possibly overcast or buttonhole}

^{14th century}

^{Kingston upon Hull, England}

^{Silk fabric with eyelets, thread has disappeared, probably linen}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 167}

^{Upright hem stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 236. Fragment of foothose*. Edges overlapped and raw edges hemmed down with linen thread. Stitches 3mm long, at 3-4mm intervals}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 153}

^{Upright hem stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 238. Fragment of foothose*. Edges overlapped and raw edges hemmed down with linen thread. Stitches 3mm long, at 3-4mm intervals}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 153}

^{Upright hem stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 239. Fragment of foothose*. Edges overlapped and raw edges hemmed down with linen thread. Stitches 3mm long, at 3-4mm intervals}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 153}

^{Upright hem stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 240. Fragment of foothose*. Edges overlapped and raw edges hemmed down with linen thread. Stitches 3mm long, at 3-4mm intervals}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 153}

^{Upright hem stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 241. Fragment of foothose*. Edges overlapped and raw edges hemmed down with linen thread. Stitches 3mm long, at 3-4mm intervals}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 153}

^{Upright hem stitch}

^{14th century}

^{London, England}

^{No. 242. Fragment of foothose*. Edges overlapped and raw edges hemmed down with linen thread. Stitches 3mm long, at 3-4mm intervals}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 153}

^{Blanket stitch (buttonhole) stitch}

^{14th century (approx)}

^{Springhill, Rogart, Sutherland, Scotland}

^{Item No. 24. Shirt – neck opening blanket stitched at the corners}

^{Henshall, A. Early Textiles, p. 21}

^{French seam}

^{14th century (approx)}

^{Springhill, Rogart, Sutherland, Scotland}

^{Item No. 24. Shirt – seam with raw edges turned in toward each other and hemmed together}

^{Henshall, A. Early Textiles, p. 21}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century (approx)}

^{Springhill, Rogart, Sutherland, Scotland}

^{Item No. 24. Shirt – raw edges turned over twice to wrong side and hemmed before seam is sewn. French seam with raw edges turned in toward each other and sewn together. Neck opening hemmed on long sides}

^{Henshall, A. Early Textiles, p. 21}

^{Overcast stitch}

^{14th century (approx)}

^{Springhill, Rogart, Sutherland, Scotland}

^{Item No. 24. Shirt – selvedges sewn together, seam edges with turned hems sewn together}

^{Henshall, A. Early Textiles, p. 18}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{Sleeve fragment from BC72. Single-turned hem folded back 4-5mm and held by backstitching in silk thread 2mm from edge.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 156}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 34. Possibly a sleeve fragemtn, hem folded back once and held by backstitching}

^{Crowfoot, et al, p. 156}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 159. Possibly a sleeve fragment, hem folded back once and held by backstitching}

^{Crowfoot, et al, p. 156}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 64. Buttonhole edge of sleeve cuff. Buttonhole stitch worked in silk thread}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 64. Sleeve cuff. 12 buttonholes worked in silk}

^{Crowfoot et al, pp. 182, 184}

^{Cloth buttons}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 64. Sleeve cuff. Button edge turned under 20mm-25mm, buttons attached to folded edge.}

^{Crowfoot et al, pp. 182, 184}

^{Hem or oversewn}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 57. Facing attached to raw woolen edge. Facing of 9mm wide silk. Single turned, and hemmed or overstitched to raw edge of cloth. Inner edge of facing has a single-turned hem in hemstitch}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 160}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 78. Armhole or neckhole edging facing. Lower edge of facing held down with small slanted hemstitches approx. 3-4mm apart}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 158}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 50. Armhole or neckhole edging facing. Lower edge of facing held down with small slanted hemstitches approx. 3-4mm apart}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 158}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 78. Armhole or neckhole edging facing. Edge turned under 3mm, covered with a 5mm whide strip of silk held firmly in place with 2 rows of tiny running stitches.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 158}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 50. Armhole or neckhole edging facing. Edge turned under 3mm, covered with a 5mm wide strip of silk held firmly in place with 2 rows of tiny running stitches}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 158}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London,England}

^{No. 57. Facing attached to raw woolen edge. Row of tiny running stitches below hemmed edge to strengthen edge and hold facing flat.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 160}

^{Tablet-woven braid worked directly onto raw edge}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 64. Sleeve cuff. Tablet-woven braid worked directly into raw edge of buttonhole side of cuff}

^{Crowfoot et al, pp. 182, 184}

^{Tablet-woven braid woven directly into edge of fabric}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 64. Buttonhole edge of sleeve cuff. Tablet woven braid worked directly into edge of cuff to strengthen the edge, as buttonholes finish only 2-3mm from opening}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Top stitch}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 64. Sleeve cuff. Wrist edge cut on straight and neatened with single top-stitched fold}

^{Crowfoot et al, pp. 182,184}

^{Top stitching}

^{14th century, 2nd quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 235. Possibly the top of hose, single hem with remains of topstitching in silk thread (backstitching?)}

^{Crowfoot, et al, p. 156}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century, Last quarter}

^{London, England}

^{No. 338. Silk lampas strip, tapered to point, folded in two and stitched down the center with running stitches in 2-ply thread, 8 stitches per 5mm}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 121}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 235. Hose fragment. Top edge has single-fold hem top-stitched with backstithes.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 186}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 329. Strip 186mm long with 6 eyelets placed 22mm apart. Eyelets worked in silk 2-play thread, completed by 2 full circuits of buttonhole stitch}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 164}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 246. Hood. Remains of 9 buttonholes under the chin, probably stitched with linen, as stitches are missing}

^{Crowfoot et al, pp. 190-191}

^{Cloth buttons}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 216. 46 cloth buttons along a stretch 315 mm long.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 169}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 219. Fine tabby silk facing on garment. Held on by slanting hemstitches on both sides.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 158}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 216. Probable lower sleeve edge with silk tabby facing, held on by slanting hemstitches on both sides}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 158}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 386. Folded ribbon used as seam binding}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 158}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 383. Tabby silk binding on edge of a leather pouch.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 158}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 329. Strip 186mm long, 17-20mm wide. Narrow turning along edges. Companion strip of 16-22mm wide silk held in place by running stitches on 3 edges}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 164}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 235. Hose fragment. Seam allowance on each piece turned out from seam and held down by tiny running stitches, worked from the outside, 2-3mm from the seam.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 186}

^{Running stitch}

^{14th century, Late}

^Denmark

^{Golden gown of Queen Margareta. Seam allowances each turned out from the seam and held down by running stitches.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 186}

^{Running stitch or back stitch}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 235. Hose fragment. Seam stitched with either running or back stitches.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 186}

^{Stitching (back stitching?)}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 329. Strip 186mm long, 17-20mm wide. Facins trip has 2 equally spaced lines of stitching extending the full length of the strip}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 164}

^{Tablet-weaving join}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 399. Silk lampas bag: piece of cloth folded double and made into a bag by working tablet-woven braid made with 30 tablets, along the 2 cut edges and around the opening.}

^{Crowfoot et al, pp. 114, 121}

^{Whip stitch rolled hem}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 333. Silk veil. Rolled hem with long diagonal hemstitching wrapped around the roll. Hem is less than 1mm deep with approx. 5-6 stitches per cm}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 158}

^{Whip stitch rolled hem}

^{14th century, Late}

^{London, England}

^{No. 334. Silk veil. Rolled hem with long diagonal hemstitching wrapped around the roll. Hem is less than 1mm deep with approx. 5-6 stitches per cm}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 158}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Stitches general to the site}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 89}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Dress No. 38.}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 103}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Dress No. 39. Edges turned and backstitched down}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 104}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Man’s gown No. 42. Sleeve slit stitched with backstitch}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 113}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Woman’s gown No. 47. Backstitched seam}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 119}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Item No. 71. Hood. Face edge turned under sewn down with rows of backstitches}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 160}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{No. 76. Hood. Front edge turned under and sewn with backstitches}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 162}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{No. 78. Hood. Edges of hood turned under & sewn with 1 or 2 rows of backstitch}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 164}

^{Back stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{No. 80. Hood. Front edge at face turned under, sewn w/2 rows of backstitch}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 167}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 67. Buttonhole stitch worked in silk thread}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 32. Buttonhole strip worked in silk thread}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 159. Buttonhole stitch worked in silk thread}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 220. Small buttonhole stitches in loosely woven cloth with a silk facing}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 171}

^{Buttonhole stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Dress No. 39. Edged eyelets}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 103}

^{Cloth buttons}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Man’s gown No. 41. Glued fabric core, covered with fabric}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 108}

^{Cord sewn onto edge}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Item No. 61. Child’s frock. Bottom hem edged with cord sewn on with long darning-stitches passing backward and forward}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 127}

^{Cord whip stitched onto edge}

^{14th century?}

^{Herolfsnes, Greenland}

^{Man’s gown No. 42. Bottom hem edged with 2-ply cord sewn on with overcast. Pocket slits also edged with cord}

^{Norlund, P. Buried Norsemen, p. 113}

^{Gathering stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 72. Possibly from neck edge of cape or cloak.}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 172}

^{Gathering stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 233. Strip with evidence of gathering}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 172}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 173. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), hemstitched into place}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 217. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), hemstitched into place}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 218. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), hemstitched into place}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 220. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), hemstitched into place}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 221. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), hemstitched into place}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 222. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), hemstitched into place}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Hem stitch}

^{14th century?}

^{London, England}

^{No. 223. Buttonhole strip backed by facing (now gone), hemstitched into place}

^{Crowfoot et al, p. 161}

^{Hem stitch}